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Prompted by the oracle at Delphi, a man named Byzas established a town on the site of present-day İstanbul around 657 BC. Although conquered by Alexander the Great and eventually subsumed by the Roman Empire, Byzantium fared pretty well until it annoyed a Roman emperor by backing his rival in a civil war, and it was subsequently destroyed. A new city was erected in 330 AD, at first called New Rome but quickly rechristened Constantinople in deference to the new Roman emperor, Constantine.
Constantinople was regarded as the capital of the Eurasian world, thanks in large part to its magnificent architecture - many of the Christian churches, as well as the impressive Hippodrome, are still visible today. Embellishments to the city continued as the Eastern Roman Empire grew in strength, reaching its peak in the time of Emperor Justinian in the 6th century. Over the next few centuries the city weathered attacks by the armies of the Islamic and Bulgarian empires, but the crusaders finally sacked it in 1204. The city was reclaimed by a rejuvenated Byzantine Empire 50 years later.
The fall of Constantinople occurred in 1453 when the Ottoman army of Sultan Mehmet II took the city. It was under the Ottomans that a classic mosque design was established and many other great buildings constructed in the city, which was soon renamed İstanbul. The Ottoman Empire overextended itself militarily in the 18th century and went into a decline, accentuated by the fact that it was well behind Europe in the areas of science, politics and commerce. This led to modernisation attempts and in-fighting, including the eventual slaughter in İstanbul of the janissaries, the sultan's bodyguards and a prominent symbol of the old regimes.
Ethnic nationalism ultimately splintered the Ottoman Empire. Greece asserted itself in 1832, with Bulgaria, Romania, Albania and the Arabs primed to follow suit. Meanwhile, other European powers were getting ready to squabble over the geographical pickings. Russia tried to pressure the Ottomans for control of the faltering empire's subjects, but the unfortunate result was the Crimean War, fought in 1853-56 with British and French support for the Turks against encroaching Russian power.
The turn of the 20th century was greeted with more nationalist uprisings in Macedonia, Crete and Armenia, and Turkish stability hit a new low after the country opted to side with Germany during WWI - the result was the British occupation of İstanbul. The Turkish War of Independence, during which revitalised nationalist forces fought off invaders from Greece, France and Italy, finally led to the birth of the Turkish republic in 1923.
The seat of the new nation was established in Ankara, and İstanbul, no longer regarded as a political or cultural powerhouse, was relegated to a back-seat role in terms of its prominence as a city.
However, recently İstanbul has undergone a renaissance, with its infrastructure being upgraded, its cultural life emphasised and its political tenor increasingly influenced by the West. Indeed, Turkey's bid to join the EU is underpinned by the fact that these days its major city is a cosmopolitan and sophisticated megalopolis more than ready to reclaim its status as one of the world's truly great cities.
Although it has a dramatic setting around a bay backed by mountains, most of İzmir is modern, which makes it a hard city in which to fall in love at first sight. Give it a chance and you may find Turkey's third-largest city growing on you.
İzmir owes a huge debt to the late, much-lamented mayor, Ahmet Piriştina, who saved it from potentially disastrous plans to run a motorway along the seafront and gave large parts of the centre back to the locals by overseeing pedestrianisation schemes. Nowadays the sea-facing Kordon is a great place for jogging, cycling, walking the dog and just plain lounging about, while the northern district of Alsancak is being steadily restored, its lovely old houses reminiscent of the Greek island of Chios, metamorphosing into inviting restaurants and bars.
Details ![]() | Neighbourhood | Keyword |
| Alp 856 Sokak 51 | Konak | souvenirs |
| Artı Kitabevi Cumhuriyet Bulvarı 142/B | The Kordon | books |
| Bazaar | Konak | market |
| Sipahi Okey Anafartalar Caddesi 447 | Çankaya | jewellery souvenirs |
Check your Midnight Express stereotypes at the door - this is a rapidly modernising country with one foot in Europe and one in the Middle East. It's not all oriental splendour, mystery, intrigue and whirling dervishes but it is a spicy maelstrom of history knocking up against a pacy present.
The Turkish people have an unrivalled reputation for hospitality, the cuisine is to die for, the coastline is a dream, and many Turkish cities are dotted with spectacular mosques and castles. And while costs are rising, Turkey remains one of the Mediterranean's bargain-basement destinations.
The recent incursion of Turkish troops into northern Iraq has resulted in heightened security concerns across the country. The Iraq border region continues to be very dangerous due to conflict between Turkish and Kurdish forces, and travel to this area is not advised. Check travel advisories before travelling to rural areas near the borders of Syria and Iran.
Turkey is generally safe, but sporadic violence due to domestic and regional tensions does occur. In December 2007 a car bombing in Diyarbakir killed six people and injured many more; fatal bomb attacks also occurred in Izmir and Ankara during 2007. Shopping and tourist areas in Antalya and Marmaris have also been targeted. Bomb attacks are sometimes aimed at targets that represent Western interests, such as banks and consulates. Travellers should exercise caution and monitor the news for any further warnings.
Check out Safe Travel for updated government warnings or the Thorn Tree travel forum for some good advice from travellers.
severity: Mid-level alert